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Some Perfumes by Family

There are broad families of fragrances that seem to appeal to certain types of people.

 

Citrus scents are cheerful, upbeat, and positive. Like a shot of orange juice, they stimulate, refresh, and just make things little sweeter. The one downside to citus is that it is not exactly exotic. Ctirus notes are everywhere and as much as they appeal to us, they can bore us as well.

 

Many perfumes use citrus notes the same way we all use orange juice: a shot first thing in the morning then no more for the rest of the day. Many perfumes have lots of citrus top notes (they're what you whiff right out of the bottle) that die down and disappear quickly.

 

Citrus need not be the simple orange or lemon scents of some traditional colognes. Today, Clementine oranges, grapefruit, and bergamot are all used to give citrus some depth and variety.

 

Citrus scents are great to wear in the summer (they're perceived as light), by youhtful individuals, and in casual situations. Some really maor citrus scents:

  • 4711 Cologne
  • Little Italy (Bond No. 9)
  • Cinema (Yves St. Laurent)
  • Diorella (Christian Dior)

Green scents come from green things, mainly. It's a hard family to describe until you've smelled it a few times. Greens use botanicals: pine, conifers, mosses, juniper. But green can even encompass lavenders and some herbs.

 

Green scents are also considered light, pleasant, upbeat, but they have a maturity to them. They are great for summer wear but do not have to be limited to that, and generally work better on more mature individuals than kids. They're light but have depth.

 

Examples of green scents include these:

  • Green Tea (Bvlgari)
  • Brit (Burberry)
  • Pure Grace (Philosophy)
  • Chanel No. 19
  • Aqua Allegoria Herba (Guerlain)

Floral scents come from flowers and are the oldest and still most beloved fragrances on earth. Floral scents may focus on one or two types of flowers or may offer the symphony of aroma that a great big boquet would bring.

 

Among perfume purists, the term "flowery" is used for any scent that uses flowers but only flowers. As soon as fragrances from flowers combine with other ingredients (such as woody scents or fruity scents or citrus), you have a floral.

 

Floral perfumes are so common that they are often talked about as hyphenated names: the fruity-florals, green-florals, woody-florals. In fact, floral traces are found in just about every type of fragrance.

 

There are too many florals to name but here are a few that just come to mind:

  • Eternity (Calvin Klein)
  • Very Irresistable (Givenchy)
  • Agent Provocateur
  • Chelsea Flowers (Bond No. 9)

Oriental fragrances span a pretty wide range of ingredients but can be determined more by a mysterious quality they have. Orientals are deep, rich, warm, spicy, and sensual. Typical Oriental ingredients include products derived from resins, oils, and woods plus spices.

 

Oriental scents use sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla, cinnaomon, cloves, spices, and amber. Oriental fragrances are perceived today mostly as being "strong," but that is more a cultural phenomenon since lighter citrus scents are so popular (and, by contrast, make the Orientals seem heavier).

 

Some of the world's great scents are Orientals. They are best worn in the evening, tend to be more formal and "dressy," and are definitely mature. Some of them are:

  • Youth Dew (Estee Lauder)
  • Youth Dew Amber Nude (Estee Lauder)
  • Angel (Thierry Mugier)
  • Shalimar (Guerlain)
  • Hypnotic Poison (Dior)

 

Featured Resources

The Year I Wore Too Much Perfume

How Perfume Changed My Life

by Joanna McLaughlin

 

Most people I know well are shocked to find out that I like perfume. I guess my lifestyle was such that perfume would not have seem to fit. I found the reaction to my new infatuation with things scented to range from mild disbelief ("I had no idea you liked perfume") to profound skepticism ("I find it hard to believe you would spend money on perfume") to even mild anger ("What's with all this perfume stuff? What's wrong with you?") I knew right about then that I was onto something. Something big.

 

The funny thing is that I remember liking perfume. As a little girl, I can remember that my mother wore a perfume called Tweed and another one called Evening in Paris, that came in a shocking blue bottle. I know shocking blue isn't a color, but that's how the bottle looked to me. It was bluer than things normally were. Once, when she ordered some stuff from a friend of hers who was having a home party, I got a plastic container shaped like a daisy full of some kind of scent.

 

Of course, my mother wasn't a true perfume person, either. She worked, but in my dad's business, which involved a lot of blue collar activities like painting and lifting stuff and being a dusty big shop. But the thing that impressed me was that, in the secret life of every woman, was a bottle of perfume.

 

She actually had pretty good taste in perfume. She loved a scent called Nuit de Noel, which she knew meant Christmas Night although she was no linguist. Years later, she would send me to France (I was a linguist, you see) and I brought her home a bottle. It came in an intriguing container. It was a tiny black bottle that came in a dark paper box. It was not the ordinary stuff of Christmas presents.

 

Growing up, I can remember loving Muguet de Bois, a lily of the valley scent, and some kind of fragrant products called Love. I also remember Jean Nate, just oceans of it.

 

Sometime in my teen years, I developed pretty bad allergies. The medical term for what I had is allergic rhinitis (today I'm a medical writer, having abandoned linguistic work). I sneeze. My eyes water and itch. I had always had allergies, to some extent, having been born into a family of allergic individuals.

 

The funny thing about allergies is that they aren't specific. You can be allergic to one thing for a time period and then allergic to something else later on. Allergies can be familial (hereditary) but they don't have to be similar. My aunt was violently allergic to apple blossoms; my grandmother was allergic to ragweed; I have a cousin who is violently allergic to potato skins.

 

I went for allergy tests a few times in my life but it was in my teen years that the allergies I had became overwhelming. A complex series of test showed I was literally allergic to everything for which I was tested, except horses, and I am scared of horses. Dogs, cats, roses, grass, hay, seafood, strawberries, oak trees, anything you could test, I was allergic to, except, of course, horses.

 

I began taking allergy shots, two a week, a treatment I pursued for about four years. I also took allergy pills, which made me sleepy, and most of the time, I just endured. My eyes ran. I can remember taking a geometry exam with my nose running so badly that I stuffed half a box of tissues into a bandanna and tied it around my face so my nose could drip all it wanted as I took the test.

 

Interestingly, the adults in my life did not intervene. Parents and teachers were inclined to let children take geometry tests with bandannas tied to their faces. It was in this period that I lost my desire to perfume myself.

 

Actually, I was pretty jubilant just to get through childhood. In college, I went on a junior year abroad to Munich and ended up staying two more years. During that time, my allergies waned considerably and I discovered 4711, the original cologne. It's a light, citrus cologne that I happened to love (and still do), although in European society, it is a scent associated with old ladies, or so I was told.

 

When I came back to the U.S. I had a normal life, married, divorced, working here, working there. I lived in Texas and California mostly. And a lot of the time, I had allergies. Not enough to cripple me, not even enough to send me to the doctor, but enough that I walked through life smell-blind. It was probably the way it is for folks who are color-blind. You can manage to get through life, but you're missing something.

 

Then in February 2007, something remarkable happened. I got undeniably sick and, since it was tough to pinpoint what was going on, I ended up seeing a bunch of doctors. You know how doctors like to introduce you to their friends. If you have a health problem and one doctor, it's not long before you have six more doctors and then six more health problems.

 

One of the doctors was an allergist. Granted, I ended up taking a lot of pills. I think for a while I was taking 6 meds a day to get my condition under control (I had a respiratory infection, bronchial inflammation, viral asthma, as well as allergies). Treatment involved taking meds and gradually getting off some of them, but a few are still in the medicine chest and one, in particular, I'll probably be taking forever.

 

But here's the amazing part. My allergies went away. Sometime between my teenage years spent on allergy shots (in the 1970s) and an allergy regiment over 30 years later, I got 99% cured.

 

One morning, I woke up with an eerie senstation. I could breathe through my nose. Over the years with my allergies, I had learned to sleep practically sitting up. It took eight pillows on my bed to do it, but that's how I slept. I breathed through my mouth. I woke up during the night sneezing and coughing.

 

Now I woke up after a sound night's sleep--breathing through my nose.

 

I've heard stories about people who were born blind or who went blind in childhood who suddenly had surgery that enabled them to see again. I've heard about deaf people who get an implant and suddenly can hear. For me, the experience was on the same par but, of course, no body talks so poetically about smell.

 

Suddenly, scents mattered. I could smell again. I could breathe through my nose. I headed for the perfume counter.

 

I was interested in retro-scents, I suppose, the same way a blind person wants to see some of the things from a long-ago childhood. I was interested in new scents, because I had missed a lifetime of perfume. I headed to the perfume counter.

 

Of course, I bought Evening in Paris (you can get it at the Vermont Country Store, of all places; it's not easy to find). I tried Youth Dew at a department store (hated it at first, now own it and like it but don't use it much). I remembered Chanel No. 5 from my childhood as being a harsh scent, something that pierced me with a headache, but now I realize that must have been my mother's cigarette smoke or other aromas from childhood. When the lady at the perfume counter let me smell No. 5 I almost fell over.

 

It was exquisite. It was beautiful. There weren't words for it. It was so profoundly wonderful, how all those different sparkles or flashes of aromas could dance around together out of the bottle. It wasn't harsh at all, not how I remembered it, in fact, it was like silk or scented water bubbling up out of a spa.

 

It was a life-changing experience. Once I had no smell, now I could smell.

 

I told a friend how I went to the perfume counter to get Chanel No. 5 and how I remembered it as a harsh, biting kind of scent, and I found out it was the most wonderful, luscious, delicious, glorious thing I had ever smelled. She mused that perhaps age or hormones or the passage of times changes our sense of smell. I think there's something to it, but for me, it was an epiphany.

 

It's like being 50 years old and finding out you missed out on a whole portion of life for half a century.

 

The first perfume I bought was a silly little perfume, Curious by Brittney Spears. I bought it at a drug store, because I wasn't even really sure how a person went about buying perfume. From there, I graduated to department stores. I started buying Vogue and Elle and other fat magazines for the perfume samples. Then came the websites.

 

One day, I sent away for the Bon Bon package from Bond No. 9, a boutique perfumery in New York City. Around this time, I started talking about my perfume interests. A coworker was very excited and even became a partner on my forays into department stores.

 

Then I found some ladies at my church who loved perfume and were eager to try on new scents. Even a lady at a coffee stand, making idle conversation, got suddenly passionate when talking about perfume. (Her favorite: Obsession, but she admitted it was a classic, not one of those new scents.)

 

My mission is quite simple: to try every perfume worth trying, to sniff every great scent possible, and to own as many products as necessary to live out my new lifestye.

 

Around this time, it occurred to me that I was wearing clothes that clashed with my perfume. Wardrobe got upgraded.

 

Then it occurred to me that my old look, which minimalized make-up (primarily because I had such itchy, watery eyes anyway) had to go. A perfumista wears cosmetics, particularly lipstick.

 

I'm still shopping for the sunglasses (white frames, only, please) and a scarf. For some reason, I think a perfumista ought to have a scarf. In truth, I have a few scarves already, but I don't have any designer stuff. A perfumista does not wear a scarf from the Dollar Store.

 

I now want to lose weight. To write websites. To share my perfume discoveries with friends. I need to train my nose better. I can't pick out scents sometimes, and there are some scents, like colors, that I can perceive but can't name and can't even really describe. I plan on writing books.

 

It's all inspiration, which just means breathing in. Breathe in the perfume!

 

<take me back to BASICS>

 

Ingredients: Vanilla and Cinammon

Vanilla bean is the black pod in the center; cinammon are the cigarette-like brown tubes in the upper right.

Vanilla is one of those common substances that, in truth, is actually quite rare. True vanilla in the skinny black pod is extremely expensive. Yet synthetic vanilla and vanilla flavoring are quite common because they are so universally well liked.

 

Madagascar (the island off the east coast of Africa) holds the distinction of being the world's leading producer of vanilla. It's also widely produced in Mexico and a special species of this plant is grown in Tahiti.

 

The vanilla we know is actually the fruit of the plant, which grows in a pod-like shape. The vanilla plant is a climbing vine which produces very short-lived flowers.

 

The reason vanilla is so expensive is that it requires a lot of intervention to help the vanilla vine produce fruit.

 

In Mexico, vanilla vines are naturally pollinated by a certain type of bee that is indigenous to the region. This bee helps bring the pollen from one vanilla flower to the next.

 

In other parts of the world, there is no local bee that does this sort of labor. The result is that farmers have to pollinate the vanilla plant by hand, typically using a specially crafted long bamboo stick. Since the vanilla flower typically blooms and dies in the same day, human pollinators have to be vigilant with their crops.

 

Those that grow a vanilla crop have to watch vines every day for new blossoms and use the hand tool to help pollination.

 

Once pollinated, a vanilla flower will produce a fruit. The fruit contains tiny flavorless black seeds (these are the black specks you see in some foods or ice cream flavored with natural vanilla).

 

In the wild, a vanilla pod on the vine will eventually ripen and then split open, releasing its fragrance.

 

A synthetic version of vanilla is also widely used in flavorings and fragrance.

 

Natural vanilla is sold on the commodities market and prices can be extremely volatile. In 2004, the price rose to $500 a kilo while a year later, vanilla could be had for less than 1/10th that amount. Despite the availability and popularity of synthetic vanilla (sometimes called vanillin), there is still a great demand for the natural product.

 

While vanilla is common in cooking and perfumery, in traditional medicine, vanilla has been prescribed for reducing fever and stirring up libido.

 

Cinnamon

Cinnamon was one of the original exotic spices from India that drove Christopher Columbus on his voyage of discovery. Cinnamon comes from the bark of a small evergreen tree native to southern India and Sri Lanka. Although the tree produces oval leaves and small flowers, it is the bark that is used for flavoring.

 

In fact, the cinnamon flower has a rather unfortunate smell.

 

The sharp cinnamon flavor comes from an oil contained within the bark.

 

Cinnamon is reported in ancient literature. There is a record of it being traded in China in 2000 B.C. and in the Bible, Moses mentions it (Exodus 30:23).

 

Extremely valuable in ancient times because the spice was made from wild plants, cinnamon today is cultivated. Cinnamon can be harvested after about two years. The inner bark (not the outer) is used and cut from the tree so that it dries in rolls known as "quills." Quills are then cut and sold as sticks.

 

There are several varieties of cinnamon. Sri Lankan cinnamon is considered one of the world's finest and is characterized by a light color and strong aroma.

 

Cassia is a related plant and is sometimes called cinnamon. In truth, they are two different plants. In stick form, cinnamon is much finer and easier to break than cassia. In powdered form, they can be difficult for all but experts to distinguish.

 

Cinnamon is a more frequent ingredient in cooking than in perfume, but it is a frequent note in spicy and Oriental fragrances.

 

In traditional medicine, cinnamon oil is sometimes recommended for treating colds and digestive complaints.

 

When the media recently reported that cinnamon was being studied for its allegedly beneficial effects on type II diabetes, that plant was actually cassia.

 

Today, cinnamon is widely available all over the world. Its pleasant scent makes it a favorite of candle-makers and aromatherapists as well as perfumists. But its most common application is in the kitchen.

 

 

 

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